Fourteen years ago, I walked down Dong Khoi street and it was mostly packed down earth with bits of pavement here and there. I hopped on the back of a Xe Om and the driver would take me to work; with a pit stop at Paris Deli on Dong Khoi. There, I would savor my cafe sua da and croissant, before heading into District 3.
Today, I strolled down Dong Khoi in the hot February sun and slipped into an air conditioned store advertising itself as an outlet for high-end designers. The dress looked just like the one gracing the glossy pages of Vogue and Marie Claire. One particular dress was purple with polka dots in silk with lace cut-outs patched on the sides. I took a closer look and flipped the tag over to see the Dolce and Gabbana label, complete with a hologram label. I flipped back the hem seams to reveal a mesh and mess of jumbled thread that was loose and unraveling. Clearly someone did not set the correct tension on the sewing machine. I was shocked to see shoulder straps sewn on after the lining had been completed; leaving about 2 inches of strap dangling open inside the dress. This particular dress listed for about 25million vnd - about $1250USD. I was appalled at the audacity that someone would pass off an obvious fake for an astronomical price. The sales gals stared at me in curiosity. I asked her where the dress was made and she said, it's made in Italy. The two sales gals looked at each other and commented on why the customer would be skeptical of the authenticity of their products. She looked at me again and said, it is made in Italy. I wondered if she has ever seen a real Dolce and Gabbana dress? I asked her, do you think the tailoring on this dress is professional? I inverted the dress and exposed the dangling jumbled threads and the excess shoulder strap . Sincerely, I do believe these gals thought they were selling the real thing, which made me wonder, did the retailer get swindled when he bought wholesale? It's possible as well, since some really good fakes are actually made in the same factories that sell the authentic luxury brands. In fact, counterfeiters spend an exorbitant amount of time and expense on labels and holograms. I left the store, informing the sales gals that I did not know where their dresses were made, but they were NOT Dolce and Gabbana.
A few stores down at Milan, I was relieved to see real Dolce and Gabbana, at real Dolce and Gabbana prices. Which obviously was way over my shopping budget, but I couldnt help admiring the materials, seams and designs. They were meticulously put together, the seams were flawless and the Alencon lace was breathtaking. Each piece, with delicate ruching in key areas, would have hidden many imperfections and beautified the woman it graced. The colors were defining and striking, from classic black to deep hues of majestic purple. It branded someone as classy with an edge; definitely not boring, nor attention-seeking. But it had gravitational pull, because it was compelling. More importantly, it was the woman who carried the apparel that would bring it to life.
Governor's Ball - American Chamber of Commerce Vietnam
Over 400 attendees made their way to the Intercontinental Hotel to celebrate a Hawaiian Christmas at the 16th annual Governor's Ball, sponsored by AmCham. Ladies-in-waiting greeted the female guests and adorned their hair with choices of moth or dendrobium orchids. This black-tie event brought out a large portion of corporate sponsors and American businesses, including Coca-Cola, Intel, Citibank and Indochina Capital. What's most notable is that Saigon style dances to its own eclectic fashion beat; fanning from traditional white ao dais to Versace. The majority of the dresses were floor-length, custom made gowns, with vibrant splashes of rose, gold and green. Silk satin appears to be the fabric of choice - which can be found in abundance of colors and stretch varieties in Vietnam.
Entertainment included an impressive performance by Elvis (in his younger years), wooing the dining guests with the likes of "Cant Help Falling In Love" and "Suspicious Minds".
IN A SEA OF BLACK BOW TIES.....
The Ao Dai can be neither traditional nor Vietnamese, actually.
Entertainment included an impressive performance by Elvis (in his younger years), wooing the dining guests with the likes of "Cant Help Falling In Love" and "Suspicious Minds".
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| Ladies in Italian Colors and Custom Silk Satin Gowns (left & right) |
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| Left to Right (custom tailor, Le Thanh Ton boutique, Kin Design Le Thanh Ton, custom tailor) |
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| Orchid Tailor (left) |
IN A SEA OF BLACK BOW TIES.....
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| A Rare Hand-Tied Bow Tie |
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| A Pink Bow Tie from Hanoi |
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| Greek Inspired Gowns Around the Coca Cola Sponsored Table |
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| Versace (back) |
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| Versace (front) |
Shades of Holiday Silver: ribbon w/exposed zipper (left), nightgown satin (right) and ruched gown (bottom)
Lace Ao Dai (Left), Ao Dai made in Thailand (Middle),
White Ao Dai (Right)
White Ao Dai (Right)
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| Satin silk gown and lace shawl custom-made by Tylho Boutique (Ly Tu Trong) |
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| Rose Lace, Ruffled Layered Chiffon and Mesh Lace |
Tailors in HCMC Saigon - if you have less than 7-10 days visit to Vietnam
Where to go for tailoring in Vietnam depends really on what you want done and how much time you have. There is really no such thing as a one-stop shop and most tailors are known for a special area of expertise. Keep in mind, you won't find Hong Kong level custom tailoring in Vietnam, so if you plan to plunk down considerable cash for high-end fabrics, always have a sample made first to determine the pattern cut and stitching is exactly what you want. The worst mistake in tailoring is to assume your tailor knows what to do and what materials to use. Tailors that say they will do this and that, will often forget, as they get numerous requests from clients in a week. Vietnam does a lot of commercial textile manufacturing for retail chains around the world, but keep in mind, the majority of these garments are generally more simple in design and skill. These tailors are listed because there have been actual experiences from expats reporting on them.
Tips to keep in mind for your Vietnamese tailor: Keep the design simple and try to always have a sample.
1. Always have the tailor write down the details of your request, small or large, or expect a surprise when you come pick up your order. Bring in a picture, or even better, an already made-sample fit to your liking. Even better - bring your own list of details (even if it's in English) - because she will refer to it when she starts making the outfit - and she will find translations. Make sure to staple that piece of paper to your fabric or on the bag you brought your fabric in.
2. If you bring in only a cut-out picture of your design, 99% of the time, it will not look exactly like the image
3. Specify threading color and have them write it down (you would be amazed at how many times red or purple stitching is replaced for black thread in women's dresses)
4. Always specify the lining you want and the color - but even better, buy your own lining and bring it in; or have them show you the exact lining they will use for the garment and have them write it down. Ask the tailor how much lining you would need and ask them to tell you what the average width (cau pronounced kho) of the fabric is.
5. Schedule a fitting if you have time and always call a day before or the morning of the fitting to assure they have your item ready and what time they have scheduled you. Some tailors are far away, so save yourself the trouble by following up. Do this as well when you are scheduled to pick up your final product.
6. Smaller, local tailors often reserve Noon to 2pm as their sacred siesta hours, so try not to come during that time for fittings or pick-ups; as your tailor maybe fast asleep!
Business or leisure travelers with 7-10 days or less:
- The concierge at 5 star hotels will generally list a handful of tailors that they find reputable. Just keep in mind, it's all relative.
a. Loan Ha Silk (214 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao Ward, District 1): Loan speaks English, Vietnamese and Japanese. She makes a variety of dresses (western, ao dai, suong sam, etc). She copies samples extremely well. During the high tourist season, she gets quite busy as her shop is located in the backpacker's district. But off season, she turns around outfits quickly and with quality. She charges about 25USD for the labor for simple dresses, but there are extras for complicated accessories, lining, etc. Try to mention you are from Anphu or Thao Dien - which generally means a long-term customer relationship; you'll probably get your orders back with extra care and attention. She used to have a tailoring shop on Dong Khoi street, but was pushed out when the rents begin rising. The quality in her dresses has exceeded my expectations for what I have seen out there - especially when I had a sample she could copy exactly. Ms Loan's mobile 0966279684.
b. Cao Minh (77 Mac Thi Buoi, Quan 1): specializes in men's suits, tuxedos and shirts. For shirts, you may be able to squeeze in if you have around 7-10 days. Suits and tuxedos generally require two weeks or more. The more simple the cut and design, the more likelihood of success. They have been around for some time and are also well known in Hanoi. They are the only men's tailor I have come across in Saigon that can make a hand-tied bow-tie for tuxedos (though it came out 2-3inches short, so make sure you have them add 2 inches to the neck measurement). They have very specific pics on collars, cuffs, pleats, etc for their men's shirts - unlike any other men's tailor shop I've come across. Their prices are higher than most local tailors and tend to promise only what they can successfully make.
c. Trish & Verona (39 Dong Du, across from the Sheraton): Only place I am aware of that can turn around your custom men's shirts in 2 days. There are reports of decent expat and business travelers' experience here with men's shirts, though they tend to be quite fitted. When they measure your chest area, always ask them to add 1-3 cm more to the shirt - unless you got that nice six-pack you want to show off. Same with arm length - ask for 2cm addition to what they write down as your official size. Similar to other tailors, I would not bring expensive samples here e.g. silks, delicates, whites, that can be easily stained, as they don't take responsibility for staining your clothes or samples. They also have a decent selection of imported fabrics from Europe. If you can't find it there, visit Chau Minh fabrics at 223 Le Thanh Ton - which carries a nice line of fabrics for men's shirts, suits and formal wear.
d. Tailor Danh (41 Bui Vien): Father and daughter shop in the backpacker's area of district 1. Quite a decent experience here for men and women's slacks and suits. They have fabric swatches you can choose from, but you should probably call them to ensure what the turn-around time would be. Generally it's about 4 days for the fitting and final product depends on what it is. Also, you may want to tell them not to line the pockets with the "Made in Italy Wool" labeling from the fabrics - otherwise it's a given. They carry wool swatches that range from 200 to 500,000 vnd per meter. For the really nice stuff, try Chau Minh's (referenced above). Also recently had a tuxedo made here; we supplied the fabric and black satin for the slack trim and lapel. The tuxedo was made from some very detailed photo shots taken from a website and it turned out pretty nice; especially the value for your money.
e. Ms. Thao who is affiliated with the silk fabric retailer Toan Thinh on 180 Ly Tu Trong Street. Thao has a team of 10 tailors/pattern cutters/seamstresses in Tan Binh district, but if you want her to meet you at Toan Thinh Silk Retailer to discuss a project - give her a call (0903008292 or 0838644167). She specializes in dresses made from variety of delicate silk fabrics. She can turn a dress around in about five days and her team does plenty of sewing on a wholesale basis. Expect to pay about $40USD for the labor only for a dress. For best results, bring a sample dress or else, keep the design simple if you are working with a picture alone. If you have time, request specifically for a fitting appointment before they finalize the dress, especially if you are using delicate or expensive fabrics that would be difficult to adjust after stitching has been completed. You'll find plenty of delicate silk varieties here as well.
If you have had very good experiences with other tailors, please share them with us and we will send somebody out to verify their quality through market research and mystery shopping.
Tips to keep in mind for your Vietnamese tailor: Keep the design simple and try to always have a sample.
1. Always have the tailor write down the details of your request, small or large, or expect a surprise when you come pick up your order. Bring in a picture, or even better, an already made-sample fit to your liking. Even better - bring your own list of details (even if it's in English) - because she will refer to it when she starts making the outfit - and she will find translations. Make sure to staple that piece of paper to your fabric or on the bag you brought your fabric in.
2. If you bring in only a cut-out picture of your design, 99% of the time, it will not look exactly like the image
3. Specify threading color and have them write it down (you would be amazed at how many times red or purple stitching is replaced for black thread in women's dresses)
4. Always specify the lining you want and the color - but even better, buy your own lining and bring it in; or have them show you the exact lining they will use for the garment and have them write it down. Ask the tailor how much lining you would need and ask them to tell you what the average width (cau pronounced kho) of the fabric is.
5. Schedule a fitting if you have time and always call a day before or the morning of the fitting to assure they have your item ready and what time they have scheduled you. Some tailors are far away, so save yourself the trouble by following up. Do this as well when you are scheduled to pick up your final product.
6. Smaller, local tailors often reserve Noon to 2pm as their sacred siesta hours, so try not to come during that time for fittings or pick-ups; as your tailor maybe fast asleep!
Business or leisure travelers with 7-10 days or less:
- The concierge at 5 star hotels will generally list a handful of tailors that they find reputable. Just keep in mind, it's all relative.
a. Loan Ha Silk (214 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao Ward, District 1): Loan speaks English, Vietnamese and Japanese. She makes a variety of dresses (western, ao dai, suong sam, etc). She copies samples extremely well. During the high tourist season, she gets quite busy as her shop is located in the backpacker's district. But off season, she turns around outfits quickly and with quality. She charges about 25USD for the labor for simple dresses, but there are extras for complicated accessories, lining, etc. Try to mention you are from Anphu or Thao Dien - which generally means a long-term customer relationship; you'll probably get your orders back with extra care and attention. She used to have a tailoring shop on Dong Khoi street, but was pushed out when the rents begin rising. The quality in her dresses has exceeded my expectations for what I have seen out there - especially when I had a sample she could copy exactly. Ms Loan's mobile 0966279684.
b. Cao Minh (77 Mac Thi Buoi, Quan 1): specializes in men's suits, tuxedos and shirts. For shirts, you may be able to squeeze in if you have around 7-10 days. Suits and tuxedos generally require two weeks or more. The more simple the cut and design, the more likelihood of success. They have been around for some time and are also well known in Hanoi. They are the only men's tailor I have come across in Saigon that can make a hand-tied bow-tie for tuxedos (though it came out 2-3inches short, so make sure you have them add 2 inches to the neck measurement). They have very specific pics on collars, cuffs, pleats, etc for their men's shirts - unlike any other men's tailor shop I've come across. Their prices are higher than most local tailors and tend to promise only what they can successfully make.
c. Trish & Verona (39 Dong Du, across from the Sheraton): Only place I am aware of that can turn around your custom men's shirts in 2 days. There are reports of decent expat and business travelers' experience here with men's shirts, though they tend to be quite fitted. When they measure your chest area, always ask them to add 1-3 cm more to the shirt - unless you got that nice six-pack you want to show off. Same with arm length - ask for 2cm addition to what they write down as your official size. Similar to other tailors, I would not bring expensive samples here e.g. silks, delicates, whites, that can be easily stained, as they don't take responsibility for staining your clothes or samples. They also have a decent selection of imported fabrics from Europe. If you can't find it there, visit Chau Minh fabrics at 223 Le Thanh Ton - which carries a nice line of fabrics for men's shirts, suits and formal wear.
d. Tailor Danh (41 Bui Vien): Father and daughter shop in the backpacker's area of district 1. Quite a decent experience here for men and women's slacks and suits. They have fabric swatches you can choose from, but you should probably call them to ensure what the turn-around time would be. Generally it's about 4 days for the fitting and final product depends on what it is. Also, you may want to tell them not to line the pockets with the "Made in Italy Wool" labeling from the fabrics - otherwise it's a given. They carry wool swatches that range from 200 to 500,000 vnd per meter. For the really nice stuff, try Chau Minh's (referenced above). Also recently had a tuxedo made here; we supplied the fabric and black satin for the slack trim and lapel. The tuxedo was made from some very detailed photo shots taken from a website and it turned out pretty nice; especially the value for your money.
e. Ms. Thao who is affiliated with the silk fabric retailer Toan Thinh on 180 Ly Tu Trong Street. Thao has a team of 10 tailors/pattern cutters/seamstresses in Tan Binh district, but if you want her to meet you at Toan Thinh Silk Retailer to discuss a project - give her a call (0903008292 or 0838644167). She specializes in dresses made from variety of delicate silk fabrics. She can turn a dress around in about five days and her team does plenty of sewing on a wholesale basis. Expect to pay about $40USD for the labor only for a dress. For best results, bring a sample dress or else, keep the design simple if you are working with a picture alone. If you have time, request specifically for a fitting appointment before they finalize the dress, especially if you are using delicate or expensive fabrics that would be difficult to adjust after stitching has been completed. You'll find plenty of delicate silk varieties here as well.
If you have had very good experiences with other tailors, please share them with us and we will send somebody out to verify their quality through market research and mystery shopping.
In search of silk and lace in Saigon - Part I
One can find "most" things in Saigon, the difficult part is knowing where to look. There's really no substantive directory, yellow pages or google equivalent here; it's a maze of streets and alleys (aka "hems"), with business coming and going, and new addresses mounted over the old and numbers in random order. The more obscure the store or area, the more likely you'll be lost in translation.
The most popular aggregation of fabrics for retail sale can be found on one main block of Hai Ba Trung, across from Binh Thanh market in District 1. There's about a dozen stalls, but only one or two have really high quality import fabrics like stretch satin silk or French lace. The more expensive fabrics are often hidden in the back or upper levels, away from the roadside traffic and the harsh Saigon sun. At ABC Textiles (387 Hai Ba Trung), go towards the back and ascend the winding staircase to uncover the beautiful French and hand-embroidered lace for formal wear and wedding gowns. Antique white lace is in a abundance, while black and colored lace is more the exception. Expect to pay upwards of US$15 per meter for quality european lace with widths of less than 1 meter. For silks, go to Huyen Vy (331 Hai Ba Trung), where one can find a nice array of prints in stretch silk satin, beyond your typical solids and florals.
Individual fabric retailers can also be found all over district 1, especially those selling silks manufactured in Vietnam. Toan Tinh has 3 levels of silk fabrics (180 Ly Tu Truong Q1) - with a large variety of solid silks and chiffon (~200vnd/meter). You will also find nice thin silk blended linings here for suits and dresses. Nhat Nguyet Silk (28 Ter, Mac Dinh Chi, Q1) has difficult-to-find stretch satin prints (~300vnd/meter) and even ombre chiffon (~220vnd/meter).
The wholesale fabric market in Saigon is Soai Kiem Lam in District 5. One really does not have to be a wholesaler to shop here, as on some days, you maybe the only sale for a vendor; so they will still be eager to sell to you. Cotton and cotton-blended polyester fabrics are in abundance. The higher quality silks and silk blends are much more difficult to find here. There is one stall that carries Chinese and Vietnamese-manufactured lace, which is simple, machine-made lace that sells for about US$1-$3/meter.
For lace trim, you will find a few stalls in Ben Thanh market that carry a few select choices (low to medium end). Shop 607 Tam in Ben Thanh market also sells boning, needles, threads and other sewing notions.
Notions: Cho Tan Binh in Thanh Binh district. It can be far drive from district 1 or 2, but that is where you'll find more textile manufacturers and wholesale garment manufacturers. Numerous stalls selling ribbons, trims, buttons, elastics, paddings of all sorts, boning, hooks... etc. What becomes increasingly difficult to find are the adjustable clips used on high end garment straps or brassieres.
Sewing Machines: Second hand mechanical sewing machines in district Tan Binh, at 372 Hoang Van Thu street, Phuong 4, Q. Tan Binh; but no new non-commercial sewing machines. Loc Hung store on Xuan Hong in Q. TB is the only retailer that I am aware of that sells brand new sewing machines - except that they carry only one brand and model: Dragonfly for 2.3million vnd. Most recently, Lotte Mart in D7 also carries newer Brother sewing machines. You'll find it on the upper levels, on your way to the electronic department. Electronic sewing machines - which are known for storing hundreds of stitching styles and having more accurate stitching, are practically non-existent here in Vietnam. One might decide to take a weekend trip to Hong Kong to find a larger selection of fabrics and purchase a newer sewing machine (e.g. Janome, Singer, Brother) at Jusco Department stores, or visit Lai Chi Kok Road (between Nam Cheong Street and Poplar Street) as referenced here: http://katharineyeung.wordpress.com/2009/05/29/sewing-material-in-hong-kong/ .
Individual fabric retailers can also be found all over district 1, especially those selling silks manufactured in Vietnam. Toan Tinh has 3 levels of silk fabrics (180 Ly Tu Truong Q1) - with a large variety of solid silks and chiffon (~200vnd/meter). You will also find nice thin silk blended linings here for suits and dresses. Nhat Nguyet Silk (28 Ter, Mac Dinh Chi, Q1) has difficult-to-find stretch satin prints (~300vnd/meter) and even ombre chiffon (~220vnd/meter).
The wholesale fabric market in Saigon is Soai Kiem Lam in District 5. One really does not have to be a wholesaler to shop here, as on some days, you maybe the only sale for a vendor; so they will still be eager to sell to you. Cotton and cotton-blended polyester fabrics are in abundance. The higher quality silks and silk blends are much more difficult to find here. There is one stall that carries Chinese and Vietnamese-manufactured lace, which is simple, machine-made lace that sells for about US$1-$3/meter.
For lace trim, you will find a few stalls in Ben Thanh market that carry a few select choices (low to medium end). Shop 607 Tam in Ben Thanh market also sells boning, needles, threads and other sewing notions.
Notions: Cho Tan Binh in Thanh Binh district. It can be far drive from district 1 or 2, but that is where you'll find more textile manufacturers and wholesale garment manufacturers. Numerous stalls selling ribbons, trims, buttons, elastics, paddings of all sorts, boning, hooks... etc. What becomes increasingly difficult to find are the adjustable clips used on high end garment straps or brassieres.
Sewing Machines: Second hand mechanical sewing machines in district Tan Binh, at 372 Hoang Van Thu street, Phuong 4, Q. Tan Binh; but no new non-commercial sewing machines. Loc Hung store on Xuan Hong in Q. TB is the only retailer that I am aware of that sells brand new sewing machines - except that they carry only one brand and model: Dragonfly for 2.3million vnd. Most recently, Lotte Mart in D7 also carries newer Brother sewing machines. You'll find it on the upper levels, on your way to the electronic department. Electronic sewing machines - which are known for storing hundreds of stitching styles and having more accurate stitching, are practically non-existent here in Vietnam. One might decide to take a weekend trip to Hong Kong to find a larger selection of fabrics and purchase a newer sewing machine (e.g. Janome, Singer, Brother) at Jusco Department stores, or visit Lai Chi Kok Road (between Nam Cheong Street and Poplar Street) as referenced here: http://katharineyeung.wordpress.com/2009/05/29/sewing-material-in-hong-kong/ .
Saigon Charity Cabaret
The cocktail mix of entertainment and charity brought out a fine sliver of Saigon's expats and expat lifestylers for a comic strip cabaret event supporting charities for the disadvantaged in Vietnam.
The lingering Halloween spirit in Saigon stretched out for another week with animated characters, super villains and comic book heroines that came-to-life at this year's Charity Comic Strip Cabaret. Attendees spent their evening at the Intercontinental Hotel dressed up as Superheroes, the Scooby Doo gang, Belgian Tintin adventurers, Mattel Barbie Collections, French characters from Asterix and Obelix and major Box Office hits ie X-Men and Dick Tracey; to name a few.
Imagination is boundless in a city like Saigon for costume parties. Custom tailoring is so abundant and reasonably economical, that one only needs an idea and a few days to spark the creation of a fantastic costume. The result is a plethora of colors, detail and custom-fitted costumes that would be quite difficult to find anywhere else in the world - except the likes of Hollywood.
There were some attendees that leveraged recent business trips abroad to purchase more popular pret-a-porter costumes like Superman (from London) and Captain America (from San Francisco). While other party veterans put several months of planning into their costumes, including the "French Table", which gathered an elaborate cast from Asterix and Obelix, which required two months of preparation and tailoring from a local costume maker. T&T on Thao Dien in District 2 is one tailor shop known for creating costumes, hats and accessories from just a simple picture or magazine cut-out. Others found costume paraphernalia at wig retailers in Ben Thanh market in District 1 or costume shops on Pasteur Street or in Cholon.
Imagination is boundless in a city like Saigon for costume parties. Custom tailoring is so abundant and reasonably economical, that one only needs an idea and a few days to spark the creation of a fantastic costume. The result is a plethora of colors, detail and custom-fitted costumes that would be quite difficult to find anywhere else in the world - except the likes of Hollywood.
There were some attendees that leveraged recent business trips abroad to purchase more popular pret-a-porter costumes like Superman (from London) and Captain America (from San Francisco). While other party veterans put several months of planning into their costumes, including the "French Table", which gathered an elaborate cast from Asterix and Obelix, which required two months of preparation and tailoring from a local costume maker. T&T on Thao Dien in District 2 is one tailor shop known for creating costumes, hats and accessories from just a simple picture or magazine cut-out. Others found costume paraphernalia at wig retailers in Ben Thanh market in District 1 or costume shops on Pasteur Street or in Cholon.
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| Papa Smurfs and Captain America |
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| Buttercup Powerpuff in Bebe and Inspector Gadget |
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| The Femme Fatales of Crime Fighting |
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| The Adventures of Asterix and Obelix |
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| X-Men |
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| Barbie Collection |
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| Smurfets and Papa Smurfs |
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| Luigi, Captain America, Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon and Luigi's Girlfriend |
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| Betty Boop, Captain America, Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon, Luigi's Girlfriend |
The entertainment included dueling dance moves from classic rival characters Batman and Robin.
Best group costume went to the team of private investigators: Dick Tracy.
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| Dick Traceys (Winner of Group Costume) and the Flintstones |
Please share more ideas and sources on costume creation in Saigon.
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